Recycle, Reuse, Renew

Interesting question posed by a journalist in The Times of India- "How many Indians make up one American?" Huh? Apparently the answer is - one American currently emits 17 tonnes of carbon dioxide each year from the burning of fossil fuel, as compared to one Indian who emits 1.5 tonnes! So the current debate in Durban is between two camps- the developing world of Brazil, India, South Africa and China and the other side in this case being the EU. We'll wait to see how the politicians wage this battle.

In the meantime, it is fascinating to see how folks here in Chennai like other major cities in India deal with recycling.   I was surprised to find out that Chennai city is the highest per capita generator of garbage (0.6 kg/day),  churning out around 3,600 tonnes of garbage each day. I guess the  drastic increase in population and change in lifestyle which includes that awful plastic explains some of that.

But what I found quite interesting is that most people don't segregate their garbage at the source. So most of the garbage ends up in a few huge dump sites in the suburbs. One such dump is a 350-acre site that receives around 1500 tonnes of garbage a day. It is also home to over 2000 rag pickers, who live in shacks behind the site. So they go through all this unsegregated garbage and  extract reusable and recyclable materials for which they get money, in addition to what the city pays them as a daily rate which is not much. Their work is definitely labor-intensive, unsafe and unhealthy?

Imagine these young children and men and women sifting through mounds of trash wearing a large plastic sheet and possibly no gloves etc.  I just read in the newspaper that three women rag pickers are missing in Hyderabad and are believed to have been buried under piles of garbage! Scary isn't it? My goodness, how often do we stop to count our blessings?

I was happy to read that an NGO has set up a school right near one of these trash sites and is encouraging the young boys to attend classes, teaching them grooming and hygiene and getting them to be more ambitious about their future. So a few of the boys are talking about going to college and getting professional degrees! That's great work - moving them from rags to riches!!

Many of the apartment complexes have set up recycling containers and the women workers pick up the trash on a daily basis. So I find myself thinking about how I use things like plastic and what stuff I could reuse after a thorough cleansing. I hardly gave these matters a second thought while I lived in the US- so one's environment can indeed make you sit up and take notice of the waste we accumulate. Many of the grocery chains have started charging a minimal amount for plastic bags- so that is a good sign since folks now bring their cloth bags for shopping.

The recent very heavy rains as a result of the depression in the Bay of Bengal really brought out the worst in Chennai infrastructure- flooded streets, standing water everywhere, drains clogged, garbage not picked up and overflowing onto the streets and people having to wade through this awful mess to get to their schools, offices etc. The potholes are so bad that I worry that my car will get stuck in one of them since we can't see them with so much water around!

There is an increased rate of dengue fever and malaria due to this stagnation around. I worked from home the whole week- I was not brave enough to handle the possibility that I would have to get out of the car and step into dirty water! The new mayor with his extended and increased area of responsibility into the suburbs has promised to get the city back to good roads and storm drains in a year! Living in a gated community has its blessings I guess- although in the US I was not so thrilled about moving into one! I hope to be out of this area of Tamil Nadu by the end of 2012.

I have been doing research on better places to set up my Women's Training Centre and have decided on the outskirts of Coimbatore- it is on the west side of Tamil Nadu bordering Kerala and is close to the Nilgiri mountains- so the weather is milder and my passion for gardening has a better chance of success. Coimbatore has often been called the Manchester of the South because of the large number of textile companies in the area. Now IT companies and other industries have also moved into the area.

It was great to read  in the newspaper that one of the village panchayats close to Coimbatore is planning to create a solar energy grid system with private funding that will provide free power to all the villagers in 5 years! What a fantastic idea and one that is close to my heart- capitalizing on nature's resources! What's even better is that they are not waiting for the state government to provide funding-

I was very happy to be able to celebrate Thanksgiving here in Chennai- giving thanks for the wonderful opportunity to return home and develop relationships with such friendly and hospitable people. As some of my friends know, I invited a diverse group of women who were opinionated like me yet open to hearing other perspectives!

I was able to get a small fresh turkey from a farm and had roast turkey and gravy, Cajun cornbread stuffing, wonderful cranberry chutney (Madhur Jaffery recipe), 4 cheese mac and cheese, green beans, chai spiced chicken wings (called 'lollipops' here) with garlic aoli. I was able to get an apple pie for dessert from the French bakery. It turned out to be a great evening with varied discussions on women's role in India and I was quite surprised at a couple of comments that women in India are socialized to be homemakers and supporting their spouses and extended family and so no change in status quo was possible?!! Wow! So you know that the glasses of wine increased while we were getting our differing perspectives across! Ha, ha, ha!

So now it's time to prepare for the Christmas season. I can't wait to get my artificial tree up with all the decorations and trying to pretty up the home for my family visiting during the Christmas holiday. My Jesuit brother arrives on Christmas eve and will say mass at my place on the 25th- I am planning to host a Christmas brunch for friends and relatives from the area- will have to get my Christmas songs onto a USB to get into the holiday mood. I can't use my CD player here- have not figured out what I may need to make it work.

My oldest sister (a nun) who visited me in the US and my other brother and his wife from Mumbai will come on the 27th for a week. So sightseeing is on the agenda- the famous Marina beach, Pondicherry and Mamallapuram where there are wonderful old temples and a great beach and of course some good food and wine too will top the list.

So friends- until the next time- enjoy the winter solstice, holiday cheer and a great New Year!

Home is where the Heart is

I'm glad to be back home after 20 days in the US late September and first week of October. It was wonderful spending time with my two daughters and all the 'tamasha' (drama) that accompanies family time!

New York City has its charm and its challenges- I had foodie cravings and was so sure that NYC was the place to get that satiated- yes and no- ordered out from so-called Vietnamese restaurants and was totally disappointed. Actually I had a fantastic Vietnamese lunch in Gaithersburg, MD. No wonder they had a long line of potential customers waiting for a table. I enjoyed reminiscing with friends in HQ and getting caught up with office politics as usual!

A visit to Eataly was quite enjoyable- if you have not been there, you must on your next visit to NYC. I thoroughly enjoyed sipping wine, tasting various cheeses and of course Speck ham- my very favourite! We had a great lunch at the rooftop restaurant as well.

I also spent time with a friend and my daughters at Grammercy Tavern on a Sunday- good ambiance and great company! Learnt more about the character of the wines from a budding sommelier at the table. I guess just enjoying a wine that suits one's own palate is not always enough- you must know the bouquet, the colour, aromas, fruitiness, type of grape, temperatures and pairings- my friend suggested to his son to get his nose out of the glass and just enjoy!

I also met my friends from Johns Hopkins days in Baltimore- enjoyed sharing stories and learning about family trips and exchanging notes on life in general in the US and in India. Thanks to all the friends I was able to connect with in person or on the phone- you made my visit back to the US worthwhile. I was very glad that I did not have any bad experience with the TSA in all my travels this time! What a relief!

My visit to KC was also pleasurable- seeing my brother and his family, catching up on family stories and enjoying his gourmet cooking was a delight. Of course I also brought back plenty of Scotch Bonnet peppers from his garden so I could make my Jamaican Jerk Marinade- what a difference those peppers make to the jerk seasoning.

Last week was the local elections for Chennai city Mayor and local bodies- Panchayats as they are called here as well as the local City Council. Wow- the campaigning was just a few decibels above loud! You have these small vehicles that are used to transport vegetables, and other goods decked with huge posters and loudspeakers attached and the person with the mike (not the politician) blaring all the wonderful things this politician will do if elected etc. Sometimes it is the autorickshaws (3 wheeler covered scooter) that weaves through the traffic blaring these political garbage messages!

What is fascinating is that no liquor can be sold after 5.00 p.m. the evening before the election polls and for a week after while the counting takes place! So folks already know this is coming and start hoarding booze a few days early and prices go up at least 20-30%. What a racket it is... newspapers report that drunken folks came to the polls anyway!

Of course the current CM's party swept the polls- so I expect we will see change that suits them - not necessarily what is needed for the city and state. Corruption is still rampant and there is no sense of personal accountability or responsibility across the board. Hopefully the clamouring of the youth will start to impact political frameworks in my lifetime!

So this week is Diwali celebration- good triumphing over evil. It is also the festival of lights. Fireworks from people's homes, flats, on the streets have scared the heck out of me! You get out of the car and you hear this huge thunderous noise and if not prepared for it will surely cause a tremendous shock. I understand this fireworks stuff will go on for another week- the NE monsoon has started in Chennai and it does not dampen the enthusiasm for firecrackers.

It has been a rainy day and temperatures have cooled off a bit. With rain comes drainage problems and flooding on the streets- big potholes where work to install storm drains has not been completed. We talk about the Chief Minister's residence area not affected by any of this weather turmoil. The roads and drainage work great over there and I must say it reminds me of the old days in Madras! Tree lined streets with smooth paved roads, white and blue uniformed guards at entry gates of homes and offices, beautiful bougainvillea draping the walls in fuchsia, yellow, white and orange and old huge powder puff flower trees that stretch across an entire block providing a wonderful canopy from the harsh rays of the sun.

In fact the CM had to appear in court in Bangalore for a pending case of unexplainable wealth accumulated during her previous stint as CM. The trial was held at a prison in order to ensure complete 'z' security for her! I was traveling to Bangalore last Friday and everyone was stopped at the check post entering into Karnataka (state where Bangalore is located) and the police made the judgement call as to whose vehicle would be searched.

My plants have all grown so much and now I have some privacy from the neighbours across the other building- I also don't have to water them for a while with these torrential rains.

I have made new friends and will be joining the International Women's Association which is only by invitation! I feel special indeed- I understand they host some very interesting lectures and events on culture, history, philosophy, religion and the arts.
One of the recent lectures was about the origin of Tamil Muslims in the state-

I also attended a south Indian classical dance form called Bharatanatyam depicting a modern version of the story of Krishna the Hindu God known as the 'playboy',  choreographed and danced by Shobana who is a recipient of the Padma Shri (a highest honor from the government) for her contribution to the arts. She has a huge dance studio where she trains young girls interested in dance and who also perform with her in these epic dramas.

So until the next time- here's hoping you have a great halloween celebration, costume party/or trick n treat goodies too!

To quote Maya Angelou in the Washington Post-
"No sprouted wheat and soya shoots
And Brussels in a cake,
Carrot straw and spinach raw,
(Today, I need a steak)"!!
I'll take chocolate!

Bye, Bye Summer Days, Hello Cooler Nights

Summer is on its way out- although it does not mean an immediate cooling. The temperatures have been see-sawing these past few weeks- sudden outbursts of thunder and streaks of lightning light up the sky leading to a great downpour of that sweet nectar from the gods- rain, rain, do not go away- Chennai needs you every day!

So I had a great birthday celebration at the Paradise Spa in The Dune hotel just close to Pondicherry- http://www.thedunehotel.com/  Check out their website and the Spa

 What an experience it was! I went there with a friend whom I met a few weeks ago from Detroit who is also a Virgo! We decided to spend the day just relaxing and taking in nature in all her glory- this hotel is an Eco-Lodge Resort with a great beach front- so the first sense they were serious about their philosophy was that we could not drive our car into the resort- their desire to maintain the eco-sensitivity of the resort meant that their liquid gas equipped mini vans would transport us from the front office to the spa area or the rooms if you are checking in.

 The Spa is mainly an Ayurvedic Massage Centre with a doctor who provides a treatment plan based on your health needs. I opted for the Magic Water Treatment and was I in for the treat of my life! What an ethereal experience it was! I told the French woman who was the guide for this water experience that I did not swim, was terrified by the prospect of drowning on my birthday and not sure that this was a treatment for me! Amazingly, Veronique was calm and assured me that drowning was not on her agenda and to just trust that she would create an experience that provided a spiritual and meaningful journey for an hour as well as some relief for my shoulder pain. She promised to do the physical requirements like placing floaters on my thighs- I suppose a reassurance for a skeptic like me that all precautions were taken.

She asked that I keep my eyes closed during the entire session- she needed to know that I did not have problems with water entering my ears and that I did not want to be dunked. I decided to make the best use of this hour by just letting go of my inhibitions, my fears and trusting the universe to give me an experience that would truly make an imprint not to be forgotten. The first few minutes (don't quite know how many!) I was still attempting to figure out if I was really safe in her hands. Soon I was relaxed, not tense and floating in my own world!

 Veronique does various acupressure techniques as well as Shiatsu, stretching your limbs under water- which in itself is so relaxing and calming. I almost felt like I was just in another world, being transported like magic- suddenly I would feel the bright light that was so warm and soothing- I learned later that she would take me to the edge of the pool where the sun was shining!

The water was always warm and her ability to create an experience that was heavenly filled with happy memories, was what made this hour so incredibly out of this world. All I heard was the rustling of the leaves surrounding the pool and felt the cool breezes and occasionally some birds chirping.  After the hour, she wakes you up slowly and works for another half hour to get you stabilised - meaning getting grounded after floating for an hour! I recommend this experience to all my friends who enjoy getting in touch with their inner selves in a serene and totally peaceful manner surrounded by nature.

 My friend had the herbal scrub, steam bath and massage- Kim thoroughly enjoyed the experience as well. After lunch, she decided that she wanted the magic water experience and came away with similar reaction. I decided to check out the psychic reading- so something similar to the Tarot cards- but Angelic cards! I had to write down 4 questions that I would read aloud one at a time and 3 of the shuffled cards were read by the 'shaman' as answers to my questions? A different experience and I had a fun time and ended up buying some crystals to support various possibilities. I can just hear you skeptics saying what the heck is all this about?!! It was my birthday- so I just decided I was not going to let my pragmatic, questioning side rear its head for a while! We ended the day with a dinner at a French restaurant in Pondicherry.

Do you ever wonder about people you meet and what the connection may be? Strangely, I was introduced to a woman who lived in KCMO a few years after I left that town, has 2 daughters who live in NYC like mine do and who is divorced! Isn't that unusual- wow! She is also loves wine- gosh, this is so unreal! She lives on the 6th floor of this older gorgeous building and has a view of the Adyar river and so much greenery that is part of the backside of the Theosophysical Society- so will probably be protected from new construction and clearing of trees that seems to be the fate of urban growth. 

 We are meeting tomorrow for my first experience at a nightclub in Chennai! Amazingly, bars have to stop serving liquor at 11.00 p.m! So it sometimes feels like I am living in the Bible belt of the Midwestern states where blue laws used to dictate what you could buy or not on Sundays!

 My work on gender balance has given me some food for thought- I am working to get women in the lower eschelons of Indian society to feel empowered to fulfill their potential- so I am so shocked to find that many middle class professional women are stepping out of the workforce or not seizing the career opportunities offered for cultural and familial responsibilities! 

One of my colleagues who had a potentially great career opportunity in the US had to pull back in order to take care of her ailing father-in-law while her husband continues his work in the US- When will we see the value of women and the potential drain on the GDP as competent, intelligent and smart women leave the workforce to take on responsibilities that do not require the level of skills that they possess- seems to be more of a way to perpetuate cultural stereotypes of a woman's 'place'.  It is also a sign that Indian society needs to improve services for the aged and critically ill people so that we do not succumb to an internal brain drain of women  who end up as caretakers only.

So much more work to do- and so little time!

The weather is milder and my life is coming together

Wow! I did not realize that my last email to you was on Memorial Day! How time flies when you are really busy. These last two months have been very fruitful in terms of work- getting the two women's network chapters launched with our Global Chief Diversity Officer here for both.

I must say that the work in Diversity is so very basic that for many of you in the US it may seem unreal- most of our front line employees barely have 8th grade education and the women often come from families where alcoholism and domestic violence are prevalent. They work as chambermaids, multipurpose workers, dishwashers and other low paying jobs. They have ambitions to move up in the company and are delighted to have training in communication as well as work life balance techniques.

They want to learn English to do better in their customer service interactions as well as to help their children with school work. Their personal motivation to do better despite adversity, their appreciation for whatever little is being offered to them is so heart-warming that I feel so grateful for my blessings.

I have been to a number of client sites and the women are delighted when I speak in Tamil even if it is not up to par yet! My visits with these women spark a sense of community- the need to uplift everyone in order for the rest of us to be successful. The feeling I have when I am with them is so different- the mood is upbeat, not despondent or cynical about what life has doled out to them and you feel positive and wanting to share your talents. What an excellent gift from the universe! I get to learn how to relate to these women in preparation for my own dream venture “Under The Banyan”.  

The Women’s Network launch in Chennai was delightful- we had about 80 men and women in the room- about 20-30 women were from the front line ranks and they were delighted to participate especially since we had presentations translated in real time and interactive theatre on workplace themes in Tamil. So I translated dialogue for the Global CDO and a colleague did for the CEO.  Of course our Mumbai launch was a bit more sophisticated, starting with the venue- Taj Lands End overlooking the Arabian Sea. We had clients from MNCs and our keynote was from Canada. Again, we had invited a smaller number of frontline women to the event- they were so delighted to come to a Taj property for the first time that they bought new saris to wear for the occasion! The next 2 chapter launches in Bengaluru and Delhi will take place later this week and early next week.

One of the CSR projects that we have is the Eco Kitchen which is the brainchild of an AIDS pioneer in India- Dr. Sunithi Solomon who was the first to identify the AIDS virus in India and learned so much about its impact on women- she decided to start this central kitchen that the company now operates, where vegetarian meals are prepared and women who are HIV positive or just poor buy them at wholesale rate and sell at retail off mobile carts at busy street corners. One additional way for them to have an income to support their families impacted by alcoholism and other adversity.

My social circle is starting to expand a little. I am involved with reStore- a volunteer association of men and women, who promote organic and sustainable ways of living, connect people and communities to the source of their food, promote diets that include various millets and other grains and sell grains and organic fruits and vegetables directly sourced from the farmers.

The volunteer team used to meet on full moon nights on the terrace of a member’s home and participate in a discussion or watch a documentary on sustainability and enjoy potluck vegan delights.

Fascinating idea and I hope that the group restores that tradition soon! I am working with some members to start an urban gardening project- getting folks to consider growing herbs even if they live in a high rise complex.

So the mango season is coming to an end just as the weather is also getting milder. I have thoroughly enjoyed my first mango season and learned so much about this delicious fruit- so many varieties, so many flavours, so many shapes- I ended up with a few favourites of course! Imam Pasanth- initially when I saw it at the store, they had it listed as Hemam Pasanth- story goes that the Muslim name may have been altered! But this mango gives the Alphonso a run for its money. It was developed by a family in Tiruchirapalli in Tamil Nadu not a research centre and has a wonderful mild citrusy flavour and the flesh has a gorgeous lemon colouring. The shape is exactly what a mango is known for – long and pointed at the end. I also love the Mulgoa- which is a big kind a round mango that is fibreless and has such a rich, very juicy and sweet taste.

I have been enjoying a sliced mango along with some watermelon each morning dusted with a little Himalayan salt and scoops of plain yogurt- occasionally I add other fruits like beautiful figs, sliced jackfruit, sapota, jamun, papaya and pomegranate! This is fruit heaven- forget them apples and oranges- this is the good life!! The chemical free strawberries at Eco-Nut store are small- nothing like those humongous US varieties- but definitely tastier and so fresh coming from a hill station, Kodaikanal about 6 hours away. . I also have custard apple or Sita Pazham- I guess the closest to it in the US is Cherimoya? Lately, there have been lots of Butter fruit or Avocadoes to North American friends in most of the grocery stores. So my appetisers have been guacamole and tortilla chips- imagine I did not really try the Florida avocadoes in Florida- and I am thoroughly enjoying them here! That’s the variety we get here not the California Haas.

So now I have new fruits to discover- I brought home some wood apples. This gentleman at the fruit store in Bangalore introduced me to the wood apple- which literally has to be cracked open like a coconut and mixed with a little brown sugar or molasses- apparently it is good for the heart. I am waiting for the outside to turn slightly brown before I crack it open.

My latest adventure was to find a good Korean restaurant- lo and behold, the company runs the cafeterias for some of the Korean manufacturers- so during one of the client site visits, the client suggested that I eat at the Korean dining room rather than the Indian dining area- I got my kimchee and other vegetable accompaniments!

I went to Pondicherry this week to get my supply of wine and stopped for lunch at the Anand Inn. They had a Biriyani festival at the time- an Indian rice dish which they offered with regional variations. It came in a small unglazed clay pot with a tight fitting lid that is sealed with a flour paste to retain all the flavours during the cooking process. They place the pot on a jute ring and unseal to serve you. If you have leftovers, they pack the entire pot in a square jute bag to take home- quite a different doggy bag!!

I have also found a deli that has all kinds of cheeses, Serrano Ham, and the frozen Vietnamese fish Basa. These meaty white fleshed fillets are great with a good Thai Red Curry paste.

I am planning to visit the US in late September- will be with my daughters in NYC and then in DC/MD, then in KCMO to visit my brother and family and back in NYC. I leave to India on 10/7.

Tomorrow is India’s Independence Day and so it is a national holiday- we have an extended weekend- glad that I am not in Delhi where security is understandably very tight.  So in honour of India’s Independence, I leave you with a short poem on the happenings in this great nation…

As the next Independence Day nears

Let's join hands with our peers

To create a human chain of reaction

To greed, lust and discrimination

Let's all rise to the occasion

And wipe out racketeering, scams and deception

Giving hope and aspiration to the oppressed and downtrodden

And let the God in us all not be forsaken.

© Cecy Kuruvilla 2011

It's a mixed bag...Inge​nuity, Back to Organic and Fruits to die for!

Happy Memorial Day to my US friends! Summer is just starting over there and we are in the thick of it already- on the west coast (Kerala) the monsoons have started  with a vengeance and in the southern parts of Tamil Nadu. No such luck in Chennai with these hot summer days! Seems like the weather has been erratic this year across the world- I read with sadness about the destructive tornadoes and loss of lives in the Midwest.

 I am glad to have cold water from my fridge in this heat. Come to think of it, my fridge is a good example of the ingenuity of people who find ways to provide modern conveniences despite limitations. I have a French door refrigerator that has an external water dispenser that works with a water tank placed on the inside of that door! It holds about 4 litres of water- I need to fill it almost every day with filtered water since there is no central water line that is automatically connected. In a way it gives me an idea of my daily water intake!

 My freezer is below and does have an ice maker which also works differently. There is a small electric booster machine on the outside that is connected to a large water cooler type bottle with small hose that goes into the freezer area- the ice gets collected in a large tray. So I am assured of clean filtered ice cubes for those wonderful fruit juices and of course a good gin and tonic!!

I took a trip to Pondicherry a few weeks ago with my grand nephew and we stopped on the side of the road to buy a jack fruit. If you didn't know, jack fruit is the second largest fruit and is originally from the western ghats of Kerala. The fruit on the inside is in the shape of fleshy pod which is a gorgeous yellow in color that holds a large seed that is also edible once roasted or boiled like chestnuts. The flesh is so sweet and has a fragrance that fills the room when the fruit is ripe- I recall having jack fruit as a tea time snack in Kerala and could not wait for the maid to cut open this huge, prickly 'green on the outside' fruit. The tree we had in my parents' home in Alleppey (Alapuzha) had the best jack fruit that I have ever eaten- when it was opened, the juices would just flow like honey and was a smooth golden color- the ones we get in Chennai don't often match up to that.

 The other childhood pastime that I had to relive was eating ice apple- when we lived in Cuddalore just south of Pondicherry, right off the beach, we would walk to the beach and get "Noongu"- it is from the palmyrah tree and called ice apple by the Brits because it had a cooling effect and a translucent ice like flesh. The dark brown/purple black fruits, are about the size of a small coconut and slightly flattened at both sides with the edible kernels on the inside similar to the texture of a lychee. Noongu is declared the state tree of Tamil Nadu even though it originated in Africa.

 I have been searching on the net for organic food places and luckily the Times of India featured organic food places in a recent article. So I took a trip to two of the stores and got lemon grass oil to add to the water for cleaning my floors and keeping ants and other insects out leaving a great aroma in the room. I also found citronella oil that I can use when I am sitting on my terrace.

Of course it was great to find totally organic vegetables including zucchini, ridge gourd, carrots, peppers and my Alphonso mangoes with no pesticides and not looking as beautiful as the chemically treated ones, but even sweeter on the inside!! I was also able to find organic seeds for ridge gourd which I have just planted- will wait to see how they do. I also planted organic garlic that I brought from the US and kept in my fridge to simulate winter hibernation! I have Italian basil and Thai basil starting to look like they need to be transplanted to a bigger space.

 I have also found a butcher shop that sells mutton so fresh and chickens that they have a long queue onto the street from about 6.00 a.m. So I decided to go try my luck and guess what- they have a separate line for women- hooray for women!! That line is usually much shorter since more often than not the man does the meat shopping around here. So I was able to get a leg of mutton and mutton chops as well. The shop owners breed these animals in a farm a distance away from the city and this shop is only open on Sundays from 6.00 a.m- 12 noon. So they have a great reputation and I must say the meat was tender and did not need to go into the pressure cooker at all.

 With all this food feasting I decided that I need to start exercising more- so I have purchased a treadmill and started my regimen- 25 minutes at least 4 times a week. I also have my recumbent bike that I use once a week for 10-15 minutes. I got an abs push up machine and one of those large balls to do some balance work as well. The complex actually has a gym and a personal trainer- however, it is crowded especially in the summer since all the youngsters are off school as well.

 I also read about Sujok therapy which  is a Korean form of acupressure and acupuncture that is centered on the hands. It is based on the theory that your palm holds all the pressure points to your body and can be stimulated using acupuncture needles in the corresponding areas and with magnets. I have been to 5 sessions for my shoulder pain and now will start doing some exercises as well to alleviate the pain. The doctor is a medical practitioner and has been certified as a sujok practitioner as well.

 With the election of the female chef minister in Tamil Nadu, we are seeing some changes for the better- the law that was passed a few years ago mandating helmets for two wheelers is finally being enforced!! So the first day of the enforcement, it was interesting to see the huge number of helmets that were actually on the heads rather than just strapped in the front of the rider! In the past these riders would quickly put the helmet on if they saw a policeman at the traffic signals- now they have no choice but to keep it on their heads! I am sure that it will take some time before it really gets to be part of driving on the roads- the fine is only Rs. 50 ($1) right now and activists are clamouring to raise the fine to have a greater impact.

 I am amazed at the cult like behaviour of people with their political leaders- they literally worship the ground these leaders walk on- in fact one of the cabinet ministers refused to wear shoes wherever the chief minster had walked- so he has been going around barefoot and the chief minister had to admonish him. I keep wondering about corruption of people in power-- it is so easy for that to happen if the followers are not going to disagree or voice a different opinion because the leader is seen as equal to God and therefore indisputable! What is even more outrageous is the act of cutting off parts of the body as a sacrifice for their leader- examples include cutting off the tongue, thumb!

 Then of course the sad news of female foeticide on the rise among educated, affluent people in India- it breaks my heart to see that while India is marching forward in the global arena it is also stepping backwards into creating an imbalance in nature's process, thus depriving this nation of a most critical resource- its women. Amazingly, the recent high school results for the nation were published and the high scorers were girls! I wonder what it will take to get the mind set change that girls/women are just as significant as boys/men. I wish male actors like Amitabh Bacchan and Rajinikanth in Tamil Nadu would take up the cause and do awareness campaigns- after all this is when the cult status of these actors would result in some good for society.

I am starting to be busy on the job with the women's network chapters being launched. Of course our Global Chief Diversity Officer is visiting Chennai on June 28th and Mumbai on July 4th and we are planning a big bash and introducing our network teams and their initiatives around Communication Skills, Interpersonal Skills and Work Life Balance. I may have to write a blog post for a career web site on my experience of working in India- some of the cultural nuances, attitudes, business etiquette and overall interpersonal and social atmosphere. I am also working on a leadership development program for 6-8 women which should be an interesting challenge that will result in promotions as well as visibility for the women.

 So until the next time- here's to a great summer for most of you on this list and a cool winter for some of you in the southern hemisphere. Keep in touch- I love hearing from you.

Cultural Nuances in Daily Life in India

It has been awhile since my last communication to you. Much has happened and I am learning to reacquaint myself with the cultural nuances of daily living in middle class India. I want to make that distinction since I am not yet very familiar with either the very rich or the poor sections of the Indian milieu.

Take for instance, cleansing rituals-, the western style toilets all seem to have a flexible hose arrangement that is attached to the plumbing and generally situated on the right side. This hose attachment is used to clean yourself in place of TP. So, as those friends of mine who do cultural diversity work know the left hand in most Asian and Middle Eastern cultures is generally used for sanitary cleansing rituals. I wonder if that‘s the reason for the placement of the hose?! I am often reminded of the papa bear and baby bear commercial for TP in the US- no such issue here of any TP sticking to your behind!

The shower area is wide open in the bathroom- so you end up with the whole bathroom getting wet when you have finished taking a shower. Of course, that can be hazardous as you get older and slip on wet tiles!

Therefore, the creative side of me is now working on a solution since this is a rental. I have had a steel rod bent into an L shape and attached about 80” high on the two walls of my bathroom surrounding the showerhead. I have plastic shower curtains that will hang on this rod. At the bottom, I have a 2” wide PVC pipe that has been cut along the length of the pipe so that I have a semi-circular piece (no jagged edges for me) with an elbow attached at the corner and set in place with “white cement” to hold the water within the enclosure. Of course, this assumes that the drainage is just below the showerhead! I am also having small magnets added to the inside of the shower curtain hem as well as on the corresponding inside of the PVC pipe, so that the curtain will stay in place during the shower. After the use, it can be moved to one end so the room does not feel claustrophobic! Will keep you posted on how well this idea will work- it is half way completed.

I went recently to a lovely vegetarian restaurant for lunch and of course most of the folks there ate with their hands- so I watched as they washed their hands at sinks placed outside the restroom area before sitting down and then after eating washed their hands and swooshed water in their mouths to dislodge food from their teeth! Perhaps in most cases this practice seems to work in terms of reducing tooth decay!

The mango season has been on since more than 2 weeks ago- each time I go to the fruit market, the types of mangoes keep increasing- the first ones to arrive were Benganpalli from neighboring state of Andhra Pradesh (where Hyderabad city is located). Of course, I have also bought Alphonso mangoes- the sweet nectar of the gods that according to the purists must come from Rathnagiri (in Maharashtra state) to be the real McCoy! Mine probably did not- but hey, having been deprived of getting them in the US until last year, I gladly enjoy the variety grown in other parts of the south.

So now is the season for some gorgeous tropical fruits- I have been gorging on sweet watermelon, papaya, the green variety of figs, sapota, musk melons, guavas and so many delicious varieties of bananas- small, medium, large in oh so many shades of yellow. One thing that I have not ventured into yet is getting fresh sugarcane juice from a street vendor. Need to acclimate myself for a while longer for that adventure!

I took a trip to the main fruit and vegetable market both for wholesalers and retail in Koyambedu- it is housed in a huge building with fruit market on one side and the vegetable on the opposite. There is also a flower market. Apparently, 200 trucks come in and out daily in the narrow driveways. Huge archways take you inside the market where the path is strewn with old banana leaves, other green produce being chucked out and a bit slippery- glad I wore some walking shoes that had a good tread! Prices were so good and of course, the vendors were surprised to hear me talk Tamil and bargain- so they started a guessing game as to the state I was from- my driver was busy giving them hints, ha, ha! I got many of the vegetables that I used to crave in the US- moringa – we call them drumsticks and most of them are at least 2 ft. long and meaty, winter melon, different types of yams including white sweet potatoes that have a red skin and ridge gourd that Wikipedia calls Chinese okra. No idea where they saw the similarity to okra since these gourds are usually at least 1-2 ft. long, at least 2 inches in diameter, not slimy and when dried forms the basis for the loofah sponge.

I also love the real skinny long cucumbers that are so crisp and taste so good dipped in a little salt! They look like light green snakes usually about a foot long piled up on the vendor’s cart.
Let me tell you about the scorching heat of Chennai! Whew- it is hot baby, starting around 10.00 a.m. and does not let up until around 4.30 p.m. Then the sea breezes kick in and it is great sitting in the shade enjoying the easterly sea breeze. The highs around here are usually about 34 °C which translates to about 93 °F in April- in May temps may hit 40 degrees C (104 degrees F)!

I suppose I can’t have it all- since I am enjoying the fruits of this heat eh? Surprisingly, this last week saw great showers in Chennai for 3 days due to some cyclonic activity in the Bay of Bengal- temps have fallen a bit just as we have been told that there will be scheduled one hour power outages in different areas of the city all summer.

Apparently, we use more power than is available even with buying from neighboring states- so during the election months, we were told that power outages were for repair and maintenance of transformers. Now with elections in Tamil Nadu being over, the government is not shy about telling us the real reasons for these scheduled outages. I am even more convinced that solar energy needs to be more on the radar in Tami Nadu- not just wind energy, as is the case right now.

I took my first trip to the Indian hospital to set up with some doctors in the event that I would need them later. However, I ended up going there to have my swollen foot checked out for what I initially thought was an insect bite. That was 10 days ago and I still don’t have a good diagnosis- will do follow up tomorrow with the doctor now that I have a better understanding of what it might be, after emailing my doctor brother in the US to check out pictures of the foot.

Apollo Hospital is renowned for their knee replacement medical tourism and they have a glass enclosed VIP room for affluent and international patients- so lucky me, I had the right connections through a friend and got VIP treatment! I just sat in the lounge while one of the customer reps took my prescription and got it filled and I just gave him the cash. Someone even accompanied me to each of the doctor’s offices, spoke to the receptionist and got me in without too much delay!

There must have been at least a thousand people walking through that place that day- most of them seemed content to wait their turn. Occasionally, I would hear an NRI (non- resident Indian) complaining about the throngs of people and the hazards of being in such close proximity to sick people. One big lesson for all my friends who are currently enamored by my tales of the India transition is that if you are a ‘germaphobe’, have a weak stomach and need a physical bubble of more than 6 inches- you may want to enjoy life in India vicariously!

The Next Chapter in my Journey

The last time I wrote to you- there were some challenges that I encountered in this transition to Chennai... Well, some of them have been resolved, others have moved to the back burner.

 I did get a gas cooking range delivered a few weeks ago, It is fascinating that one gets used to the idea that things take a lot of time to be delivered- so I expected that it would be sometime in the latter part of February when I would expect to get my range- so it was a great surprise when I got a call 2 weeks ago that my range was to be delivered that evening!!

 Amazing how things get done here- there is always a demo in your residence of any appliance that you buy- so the appliance got delivered at almost 8.30 p.m. in the original carton and I was told that the demo would be the next morning. The tech guy shows up at 8.30 a.m.- unpacks the range, sets it up with my help of course!! Then he proceeds to let me know that the electric connection needs a plug which the customer must provide! Of course, I don't have any 220 volt plugs just sitting in my tool box waiting to be of service- luckily, my general contractor is an electrician- so I call his mobile and in 30 minutes, he is here with a 3 pin plug. In the meantime, the guy explains how the range works, needed a match to light the automatic ignition (which meant I had to hunt for matches since he did not have any!)- never was a problem when I was a smoker! So I have retired my 2 burner stove for now- I think I will use it with a tank when I have my family visiting in December and I am barbecuing and cooking outside!

 Well- my other challenge of wine in Chennai seems to have also resolved- my old friend and 1st love of my life came to visit me a few weeks ago from Bangalore- I explained to him my predicament and he suggested that we go to one of the  private clubs that has a reciprocal agreement with a club that he belongs to- Of course, I was the only woman in the bar area of the club and I ordered the bottle of wine and asked the waiter about buying a few bottles which was no problem to them- the secretary of the club was fascinated by us (the couple) and offered to let me come and buy wine as often as I like! Talk about good luck working its way to me...So I have his mobile number to let him know when I need a new supply.

I also took a trip to Pondicherry which is a 2 hour ride from here- visited my cousin and also stopped at a liquor store to pick up 12 bottles of wine as well. We were the only 2 women in the store and I literally had to keep pushing for the guys to let me see the bottles before I bought them! The samples were behind glass doors and I refused to buy without actually reading the bottle label. In my haste, I ended up getting a South African wine (Sauvignon Blanc) that was a year 2007- wasn't that great but I would know better next time.

 I have found a French Bakery with many locations in Chennai- I was so delighted to get croissants, multi grain French breads, whole wheat baguettes, various cakes and pastries etc. I also found fish sauce and many Thai spices- now that I have lemon grass growing, I feel better about Thai cooking! Coffee here has chicory added much like in New Orleans- I love that flavour- so it works for me.

 I was excited that Weber charcoal grills were now available in India- so I show up at the store and to my shock the 18.5" diameter grill with an ash catcher that costs $160 max in the US costs $666!! So I have given up on that for now and looking at other grills that may not be a Weber- but will work nevertheless.

 I have been busy trying to set up my garden on the terrace- quite an adventure compared to the US. First the plants are grown in small containers that are actually black plastic bags that are created from what seems like our heavy duty garbage bags- so they are in various sizes like in the US- with holes poked in the bags for drainage. The soil is created in big pits where black soil that has cow manure, red clay soil and sand are mixed together and put into bags for you- you can also buy just the red soil, sand or black soil with manure separately as well. So I have been busy mixing soil on my terrace and feeling like I am getting my exercise - feels like I am doing some yoga poses bending over like a downward facing dog!! I have planted Rangoon Creepers, Bamboos, Lemon Grass, Holy Basil (which is Tulasi grown in Hindu temples), Cinnamon leaf, Curry Leaf, Neem, Dwarf Poinciana, Alamanda, Bougainvilleas- (Yellow, Rose,) Ferns, Gardenias, Bridal Fern, Dracenas, Dwarf Banana, Hanging pots with verbenas, portulaca's and more...I have probably filled about 20-30 pots of varying sizes from very large to medium and small hanging pots. Lots of Advil along the way has kept me feeling good!

 I spend early mornings (6.30 a.m.) outside on the terrace now that I have the fiberglass awning installed and some cane furniture set up. Interestingly, I have crows and pigeons also enjoying the morning with me. Watching them trying to get some water from a leaking pipe , I decided to set up a bird bath- it is about 6 feet high and is created from 4 different cement moulds with the bird bath portion in the shape of a lotus or water lily and hopefully high enough and far enough that they would not mind me sitting and watching them. 

 I get to the office around 10 a.m. and also get to come home for lunch- my driver is on duty from 9.00 a.m.-7.00 p.m. His wife is doing my housework twice a week- she spends 3 hours on Saturday doing more detailed cleaning/dusting and comes on Wednesdays to just sweep, mop and clean the bathrooms. She has never done this kind of work- so it is a chance for me to see how I would be setting up a women's training centre one day!! She responds well to my guidance- so that is good and this extra income helps their household as well. She had no kids the first 20 years of their marriage and apparently her prayers to Jesus gave them a boy 5 years ago. So now she goes to a Christian church- such is faith I suppose.

 My job is taking shape and I am enjoying it- starting a women's network and had a good meeting with the women in the Chennai office- all 14 of them who are very excited about the notion of a network to discuss women's issues with men and women. I treated them to lunch after and that was the first time that they were all together for lunch- most often their get togethers are with their work group where they are usually just 2-3 women. We have created a Name the Network contest that has been sent to Chennai, Bangalore and Mumbai offices- folks are excited and have started sending me names! 

I attended a company sponsored client event for a cricket tournament and I was the only woman- the organizers asked me to talk about our Diversity Strategy- I said it looked like the company and our clients need to collaborate on increasing the women in our leadership!

The full moon is out and so beautiful from my terrace- I was able to sit outside until a few hours ago with my laptop, enjoying the great breeze, watching the moon rise in the sky and sipping my wine- I can't ask for greater pleasures at this time- life is good and simple and I see its impact on me and how I live my life today. Thanks for the opportunity to share my experiences with you.

The Journey Continues

Update on my move to Chennai

 The movers have finally delivered my stuff and I have moved in to my apartment. Many challenges existed since this apartment was not lived in since being built about 8-10 months ago- but they are all slowly being remedied.

 I got to sleep on my very own bed, soft, pillow top luxury that I had to do without for a month! It was so good, that I really did not want to get out of bed. The pigeons outside my window will be my alarm clock I guess, since they start cooing about the time the sun starts peeking out in the sky! My bedroom window is toward the north-east- so the light starts streaming in quite early. My address is below each email in case you did not notice! Apparently Saligramam is the choice of many of Tamil film stars and so tends to be a bit more expensive living- I guess I found out that a bit too late in the game! I can see the swimming pool from my balcony- there is also a gym and fitness centre in the next building from mine. No more excuses for me!

 I won't have pictures for you for a while- I need to put things in place- then get my terrace garden started etc.

 I bought a new car- Nissan Micra- diesel version (small car) and of course, I can't drive it since it is a stick shift and I'd have to be crazy to figure out the maniacal driving system in Chennai or India for that matter- so now I am checking out potential drivers- 2 have been referred to me and I will make a decision later this week. I would expect to pay about $250/month for a driver who will be on duty from 9.00 a.m.-7.00 p.m. When I need to go out of town, I would pay an additional per diem of $5/day. I am also negotiating for a maid to clean my home- daily for about 3 hours to sweep and dust all rooms, mop, wash dishes, do some vegetable shopping etc. for about $90/month with Sundays off.

Most of the work has been done in the apartment- in terms of installing air conditioners in all the rooms, hot water geysers in all three bathrooms, a new huge French door refrigerator that could not come up on the elevator and took an hour for 6 men to bring it to the 9th floor! I paid them $55 in total... God Bless India!!

The only thing that I am still trying to get is a gas cooking range- I had ordered one and they have delayed it for almost 2 weeks that I cancelled the order and looking to get it from an authorised dealer hopefully when I get back from Kolkata next week.

I have 2 huge trellises created out of bamboo that was hoisted up to the 9th floor terrace and will now get anchored onto the wall for my vines- I am hoping to find Rangoon Creeper and other fast growing vines. I am also getting a corrugated clear fiberglass roof installed just outside my door leading to the terrace- 17ftx16 ft which I will then add fabric below to give a tented feel. The guy will also add a ceiling fan so that we can sit out as well. I may look into the misters that Florida uses and see if I can get them the next time I am in the US.

I had mosquito netting added to all the windows as a precaution since I get bit a lot. I am told that mosquitoes don't fly to the 9th floor!! But they do know how to travel on an elevator!! Boy, insects are just getting smarter by the minute!! I have a battery operated zinger bat that I use to swat those pesky creatures- so far only one has shown up in this apartment and is now dead.

 The evening breeze is just great- literally no need for a fan if you keep the windows open. There are lots of young kids and teens in this complex- lots of energy around here and I even heard someone playing MJ's 'Beat it'!!

I got introduced to all the office staff today since my position has been announced- I will be the Global Director- Leadership Development/Diversity.

 I checked out the open vegetable mini market that operates daily in the evenings in my complex- they have a variety of veggies and fruits of the season- so you don't have to leave the complex to buy veggies. I understand that fresh fish just caught in the ocean is also available on Sundays opposite my complex- will need to check that out when I get back from Kolkata. I am actually enjoying chicken breasts since they are not pumped up like in the US- they are skinny fellows and taste quite good! I get to check out the meats and have the butcher chop it up the way I like- so no packaged meats and fish in the store that I go to.

 The only challenge right now is buying wine retail- apparently not possible in Chennai- so may need to go to the next state or the union territory of Pondicherry and check out possibilities. I ordered wine from The Wine Society of India and I paid $180 for 6 bottles of imported Portuguese, South African, French and Indian wines! So now I need to make friends with hoteliers to see if I can get some deals! 

 As you can see I am enjoying this experience so much- I had moments of doubt along the way when I was challenged by things not getting done as promised and all the delays etc- but those fleeting thoughts have been overtaken by the tremendous energy, authenticity and friendliness of folks around, making me more assured that my choice to return home was truly meant to be... Knowing the language has made this transition even better- I am able to get around and get things done when I speak Tamil.

 I think that I have given you enough for now- will keep you posted as I get started on my job- please continue to send positive thoughts my way